18. Balzers to Chur

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This trip to the land of Heidi, a novelist, also offers the opportunity to cross a region of vineyards among the oldest in Europe favoured by a warm wind (foehn). As we approach the last major Swiss city of Chur and the mountains, this natural communication route is tightening up and shows a concentration of historical and heritage treasures that persist thanks to the region's economic wealth.

The exit from Liechtenstein is followed by a long day in the Swiss Graubünden with passages alternating the Luzisteig pass and descents into the vineyards before returning one last time to the Rhine left permanently after Chur.

8 points of interest

Château Gutenberg
Historical
Gutenberg Castle
Visible from afar, Gutenberg Castle stands on a rocky spur that rises in the Rhine valley. The medieval castle was probably built around 1200. In the second half of the 13th century it belonged to the Barons of Frauenberg, who came from Graubünden. In 1314, Gutenberg passed to the Dukes of Austria and was then in Austrian possession for more than 500 years under the House of Habsburg. After 1750, the fortress was no longer inhabited, it was abandoned and turned into a quarry. In 1824, the municipality of Balzers bought the ruins of Gutenberg Castle and the associated estates. 30 years later they sold the Gutenberg ruins with the castle hill to Princess Franziska of Liechtenstein. In 1905, the Vaduz architect, sculptor and painter Egon Rheinberger acquired the poorly demolished complex and enlarged it between 1905 and 1910 to give it its present appearance. After several changes of ownership, the castle was bought by the State of Liechtenstein in 1979.
Col St. Luzisteig
Historical
St. Luzisteig pass
The St. Luzisteig Pass (713m) leads from Balzers (Liechtenstein) to Maienfeld (Switzerland). Already on the Roman road from Bregenz (Brigantium) to Chur (Curia Raetorum), it was for a long time an obligatory crossing point disputed during the wars. A fort is occupied by the Swiss army. The north gate of this fortress dates from 1702. There is a bar-restaurant where you can take a break after the ascent.
Chapelle Steig
Cultural
Steig Chapel
The Steigkirche is first mentioned in 831. Until the beginning of the 15th century, the present building with its Late Gothic choir was the mother church of Maienfeld and Fläsch with its 14th and 15th century wall paintings.
Fontaine Heidi
Cultural
Heidi Fountain
The Heidi Fountain was inaugurated in 1953 in memory of the writer Johanna Spiry, author of the famous novel about Heidi. The area is considered to be the home of this novel character with many activities around Heidi.
Château Brandis
Historical
Brandis Castle
Maienfeld played an important role in the first Christian century under the Romans as a customs post at the junction of the Turicum (Zurich) and Brigantium (Bregenz) roads. The present tower dates from the 10th century. Over the centuries the castle has developed from a fortress to a residence.

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Château Marschlins
Historical
Marschlins Castle
The castle was built in the 13th century on the foundations of a church. It has undergone numerous modifications, the last of which date from 1905.

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Château ND Assomption
Historical
Monastery of St. John
Built by the von Salis family, the castle of St. John's Monastery is more than 300 years old. Today it serves as a retirement and care home for elderly priests. It was home to the former Empress of Austria Zita de Bourbon Parma from 1962 to 1989, when she died at the age of 97.
Coire
Tourist
Chur
The town is at an important crossroads of valleys that control the passage of the Alps. The Romans conquered this area in 15 BC and it became the province of Raetia, of which Curia was the capital. It then passed to the kingdom of the Franks in the 6th century. From the High Middle Ages onwards, the history of the town is linked to that of the episcopate of Chur and then to the canton of Graubünden, of which it is the capital.

Description

Follow the foot of Gutenberg Castle south and turn right onto Rietstrasse after a small pond:

Take the first track on the left (Torbariet) and, at the end, turn right (Fläscherriet) to reach the forest edge (Murasträssele) which is also the border between Liechtenstein and Switzerland. Climb towards the Luzisteig pass (689m) along the forest by a marked path. Cross the barracks still in use.
Go down the other side by the small road (N°414 Steigstrasse), cross the hamlet of St Luzisteig then a stream (Lochrüfi) and take the first road on the left. Go down to the right into the first path (signposting) through the forest and vineyard towards Maienfeld reached by Heidelberggässli and Vorstadtgasse. Turn left to cross the village centre.
At the exit, continue in the axis a road (Unter der Linde and Pardellgasse) on a hillside that crosses a stream. After the stream, follow the path to the right in the vineyards and, at the end, go down into the valley to cross it and find a paved road opposite. Turn left and take the second track on the right (Treib, Oberer Selviweg and Jeninserstrasse) which joins Malans by the vineyards.
In front of the church, continue to the left (Heerengasse) until you reach the fountain topped by a moufflon. Continue along the axis (Sternengasse, Tobelgasse and Prättigauerstrasse) to cross the vineyards, two streams and reach the plain at the foot of the cliffs. In the valley, cross a stream, railway, Landquart River and a tunnel road in succession. After crossing a stream (Mühlebach), walk along the lower slopes, past Igis Castle and reach Igis (Gandastrasse). Cross Igis following the signposting (Unterdorfstrasse) which leads to road N°3. This main road allows you to cross from Zizers to Calandastrasse on the right.
From this street, continue on the second street on the right (Plätzlistrasse) to cross a railway track and pass under the previous bridge again by taking a path on the right. After a passage under the motorway, the route returns for the last time to the Rhine followed up to Chur. Leave this bank of the Rhine at the Haldenstein road bridge.
Go up to the bridge, follow the road to the left and pass over the highway to reach a roundabout. Turn right on the axis between the motorway and the railway (Reitnauerweg, Wiesentalweg) which runs along the railway track to a crossroads. Turn left (Gürtelstrasse), cross the railway and, at the end, take the first street on the right (Alexander Strasse) which leads to Bahnofstrasse, followed by Poststrasse which ends on Martinusplatz. Pass to the right of the church of St Martin and climb the stairs under the tower to reach the cathedral.

Departure : Jubilaumkirche, Kirchensträssle, 9496 Balzers
Arrival : Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption, Hof 18, 7000 Chur
Towns crossed : Balzers and Graubünden